Buffalo Trace Antique Collection

Review: Buffalo Trace Antique Collection (2019)
Photo courtesy of Buffalo Trace Distillery

It’s that time of year, folks. I’m referring to the release of the annual Buffalo Trace Antique Collection. As always, there’s not a lot of this stuff floating around, and even less at the suggested retail pricing of $99. In my humble opinion, this collection represents some of the finest whiskey from Buffalo Trace. This year’s bottlings were mostly as great as expected. There was one stellar standout and another that didn’t quite hit the mark.

GEORGE T. STAGG

Generally my top choice of all whiskies in the Buffalo Trace Antique Collection, George T. Stagg sees its lowest proof ever this year at 116.9 proof. This is due to a large percentage of barrels coming from lower warehouse floors, which, due to its higher humidity, causes alcohol to evaporate faster. The 15-year-old bourbon also saw a high evaporation rate of 56% percent for this year’s batch.

The nose instantly takes me back to classic Stagg with hints of demerara sugar, figs, oak spice, dark chocolate and nougat. Taste-wise, dark brown sugar kicks off a loud rock concert on the palate. Vanilla, mocha, and cinnamon have their amps cranked up to eleven. The finish features slightly burnt caramel, pepper, and toasted oak spice. Dark, loud, and brooding – it’s what George Stagg is supposed to be. Don’t let the low proof fool you. This is one not to be missed. 9.5/10

WILLIAM LARUE WELLER

One of the most popular selections among bourbon fans, William Larue Weller features Buffalo Trace’s wheated mash bill. This batch was distilled in 2007, making it 12 years old. It is also this year’s highest proof whiskey in the collection, clocking in a 128 proof.

Hints of caramel and freshly baked coffee cake register on the nose, with sweet corn and roasted coffee bean undertones. The entry is a touch hot but still approachable at 128 proof. It’s also on the sweeter side, with big caramelized sugars, vanilla, and brioche notes. A touch of earthiness and baking spices on the back palate adds a bit of complexity. The finish is long and warming. I’ve never been let down by a WLW release, and the 2019 entry continues that streak. Bold, sweet flavors… what’s not to like? 9/10

EAGLE RARE 17-YEAR-OLD

Last year, Buffalo Trace decided to raise Eagle Rare 17’s proof from 90 to 101, a nod to the bottling proof when the brand was launched in 1974. It was one of the best decisions they ever made. At 17 years old, a bourbon’s oak flavors can completely take over. Not the case here. This year’s batch was distilled in 2002 and has matured on the first floor of Warehouse P.

If Stagg is dark and brooding, Eagle Rare 17 is refined and stately. Dark toffee, dusty oak, and dark chocolate define the nose. On the palate, we’re treated with hints of dark chocolate covered orange, cocoa, vanilla extract, toffee. A drying toasted oak note lingers throughout the palate and into the long, dry finish. We’re left with subtle hints of oak spice and caramel. From memory, last year’s Eagle Rare stood out from past bottlings. The 2019 edition continues to improve the brand’s flavor profile by ever so slightly toning down the oak notes and allowing other flavors to shine through. This is a case of my wishing the sample size was a full bottle. 9/10

SAZERAC RYE 18-YEAR-OLD

The oldest whiskey in the Antique Collection, Sazerac 18-year-old rye whiskey has long been a favorite of mine. There’s something exquisite about older rye whiskies. This batch was distilled in 2001 and matured on the second floors of Warehouse K and L.

On the nose, mellow rye spice meets hints of dark brown sugar, dried basil, and toasted oak. The palate kicks off with hints of vanilla and cocoa. A development of astringent toasted oak and baking spices appear soon after. Official tasting notes mention black pepper and spearmint on the finish, and they’re spot on. This year’s batch of Sazerac 18 is nice enough, but doesn’t quite hit the complexity of past releases. 8/10

THOMAS H. HANDY SAZERAC

We go from oldest to youngest. Thomas H. Handy Sazerac rye is 6-years-old, distilled back in 2013. This batch was, as always, bottled at cask strength. In this case, that’s 125.7 proof. The flavor profile of this rye generally favors the spirit versus Sazerac 18’s strong barrel influence.

The nose is fresh, featuring hints of buttered rye toast, vanilla, and cinnamon. Rye grain is the featured player on the palate. The entry kicks off with waves of caramel and sharp rye grain. Butterscotch and black peppercorn develop mid-palate. The long finish sees lingering notes of creamy caramel and a sprinkling of oak spice. This year’s batch feels vibrant and seems to showcase rye grain over past releases. Nicely done. 8.5/10

Buffalotrace.com

Thanks to Buffalo Trace for the samples. As always, all thoughts and opinions are my own.

2017 Buffalo Trace Antique Collection Review


Easily among the most sought after whiskies year after year, the Buffalo Trace Antique Collection is just beginning to hit store shelves.  Okay, these whiskies don’t make it to the shelf.  It is rare when they do, especially close to the suggested retail price of $90.  They generally represent some of the finest whiskies made at the Buffalo Trace Distillery.  Let’s break down this year’s releases.

SAZERAC 18

The oldest whiskey in the collection, Sazerac 18-year-old rye whiskey generally represents all I love about an old rye.  This year’s release was distilled in spring 1998, and, according to Buffalo Trace, was put into a stainless steel tank to prevent further aging.  The barrels here are most likely from the same batch as last year’s release.  

The whiskey is stately and sumptuous.  There is a cornucopia of baking spices on the nose, along with brown sugar, dark fruit, leather, and oak.  The palate closely follows the aromas – dark brown sugar, cloves, allspice, and cinnamon.  The leather and oak remind me of a small wood panel-lined room full of old books.  A tannic grasp on the back palate is welcomed after what comes before it.  The long finish features notes of oak spice and caramel.

Sazerac 18 has always been a delicious whiskey, and I’m happy to say the 2017 release is no different.  From memory, this release is similar or slightly better than last year’s.  A stellar whiskey worthy of your time and attention.  Please, savour this one slowly.  9/10

GEORGE T. STAGG

Barrel proof?  Check.  Fifteen years old? Check.  A powerhouse of the Antique Collection?  You bet.  This year’s Stagg release comes in at a modest 129.2 proof.  The whiskies of this collection are generally extremely hard to find in stores, much less at or close to the suggested retail price.  Good news – 2017 is going to see a generous increase in the number of bottles of George Stagg released.  Does that mean it is going to be easier to find one?  I’d like to hope so, but the reality will likely prove otherwise.

The nose here is full and rich.  There’s lots of oak spice (though not oaky, per se), dark brown sugar, cigar box, dark fruit and burnt orange peel.  Big, bold, chewy flavors of slightly burnt sugars, spice cake, sun-baked tobacco, dark chocolate and barrel char.  This release of George Stagg isn’t overtly sweet, but does carry a nice complimentary earthiness to balance things.  One thing to note is the oak.  While an important element of Stagg’s flavor profile, this whiskey is not over-oaked whiskey this year.  Balance is key this year.  The finish is long and bittersweet, leaving hints of dark chocolate, oak spice, and dark toffee.

It’s good.  Great even.  I liked last year’s bottling of George Stagg, but this 2017 edition is a moderate improvement.  The big and bold flavors Stagg fans crave are here in a very balanced presentation.  Wow.  9/10

EAGLE RARE 17

I generally consider Eagle Rare 17 the sleeper of the collection.  It is the oldest of the three bourbons at 17-years-old.  Often overlooked by whiskey fans for some of the barrel strength offerings, Eagle Rare 17 is bottled at a modest 90 proof.  This year’s release is more limited than usual.  Thirty six barrels were selected, but there was a high evaporation loss of 89.5%.  That means only a little more than 10% of the original whiskey remained in barrels.  The angels were especially greedy.

The whiskey itself offers complex aromas of oak, dark caramel, freshly rolled cigar, vanilla and spice.  There is burnt sugar and oak spice on entry, followed by leather and firm but not dominating oak tannins.  A bit of vanilla and cloves help temper the oaky note.  The finish is dry with sweet oak and tobacco.

Eagle Rare 17 is the oakiest whiskey of the bunch, but this year’s bottling shows some restraint compared to previous releases. It is not a complete oak fest.  Balance seems to be a theme across the entire 2017 collection.  An elegant and dry ultra-aged whiskey from Buffalo Trace.  8.5/10

WILLIAM LARUE WELLER

The popular barrel strength 12-year-old bourbon is a “tame” 128.2 proof this year.  Distilled from Buffalo Trace’s wheated mash bill, William Larue Weller is usually the most balanced whiskey in the collection.  It’s also sweeter than the rest.

The rich nose shows hints of toffee, vanilla creme brûlée, cinnamon stick, dried apricots and a touch of lavender.  On the palate, brown sugar and nougat kick things off.  Waves of vanilla are contrasted by oak spice and leather.  The long, warm finish is a bit oakier than expected.

The 2017 edition of William Larue Weller is solid, but not phenomenal.  I didn’t this year’s release as complex as the last few bottlings.  The nose is fantastic, but it falls a bit short on the palate.  That said, I am not dissuaded to buy a bottle.  I would pick one up in a heartbeat if given the chance (at retail price).  8/10

THOMAS H. HANDY

This 6-year-old rye whiskey’s inclusion in the Antique Collection still baffles me.  The next youngest whiskey is double the age of this one.  There’s nothing “antique” about Thomas H. Handy Rye.  Okay, venting over.  Uncut and unfiltered, the 2017 edition of Handy is bottled at 127.2 proof. What you’re looking at is basically is select barrels of Sazerac Rye at cask strength. Nothing wrong with that, in and of itself.

The nose is hot at first.  A little airtime reveals rye spice, vanilla, toffee and dill.  Taste-wise, the vibrant whiskey features hints of buttered rye toast, cinnamon, cloves, and maple syrup.  There is a slightly sharp note here I find in a lot of young rye whiskies.  The finish definitely warms the chest, leaving behind sweet and spicy notes.

On its own, Thomas H. Handy is fine as a barrel strength version of Sazerac Rye.  As part of the Antique Collection, Handy is definitely the weakest entry.  The 2013 release still sets the standard, and the 2017 bottling falls a bit short.  Though it’s tasty, there isn’t a lot of complexity here.  Otherwise, it does make a helluva Sazerac cocktail.  7/10

Thanks to Buffalo Trace for the samples.  As always, all thoughts and opinions are my own.

Sazerac 18-Year-Old Rye Whiskey (2015) Review

One of my favorites of the Buffalo Trace Antique Collection, Sazerac 18-year-old rye whiskey is also the oldest in the collection.  Yes, technically, Eagle Rare 17-year-old was actually 19-years-old a few times.  This year’s release is also the last of the original batch distilled way back in 1985.  Once that batch reached maturity at 18 years, the whiskey was transferred to stainless steel vats to stop the aging process.  Next year’s 2016 release of Sazerac 18 will be whiskey distilled back in 1998.

Being a member of the Buffalo Trace Antique Collection means there is not a lot of this to go around.  There are 25 barrels worth of whiskey, minus a 58.48% evaporation.  The whiskey is chill-filtered and proofed down to 45% abv. How I’d love to see (more specifically taste) a non-chill filtered, barrel-strength version of Sazerac 18.  A guy can dream, can’t he?

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