Luxco’s Director of Brand Research and Development and I talk bourbon, Luxco’s new distillery and more as we taste the new Blood Oath Pact No. 3 and Rebel Yell 10 year bourbon.
Bourbon
Colonel E.H. Taylor Four Grain Bourbon Review
The newest limited edition bourbon from Buffalo Trace is Colonel E.H. Taylor Four Grain. It’s a 12-year-old bottled-in-bond bourbon made from corn, wheat, rye, and malted barley. Most bourbon is made with three grains consisting mostly of corn with a flavoring grain and a very small percentage of barley. That flavoring grain is typically rye, though some producers use wheat. This bourbon isn’t the first to feature four grains in its mash bill, but it could go on to become one of the most noteworthy.
“We wanted to extract everything we like from both the rye and the wheat mashbills we currently use and combine them to see how they react,” said Master Distiller Harlen Wheatley in the press release. “Not surprisingly, it added complexity to the finished product.”
I’m a big fan of the Colonel E.H. Taylor line, from its Small Batch and Single Barrel releases to the recent limited edition Cured Oak. Last year’s Seasoned Wood was nice enough, but I sadly wasn’t able to get my hands on a bottle. That’s the problem with limited releases these days. One thing that might help here is that Buffalo Trace has also announced a bottling of Four Grain to be released next year. I hope that’s a sign that this whiskey may become a semi-regular addition to the Taylor lineup. So, how’s the whiskey?
The nose is rounded and sweet, with an initial wave of spiced caramel and vanilla alongside hints of orange jam and herbs. The entry is initially sweet, with notes of caramel and vanilla. A small amount of spice comes through. I’m assuming that’s the rye grain at work. I also pick up some wonderful candied fruit buried somewhere in the mix. Some sweet oak adds a touch of astringency on the backend. The finish is long, sweet and spicy. Interestingly, a small sip of water afterwards leaves the mouth a bit dry.
All in all, Four Grain is a solid bourbon, but not a particularly memorable one. I thought a four grain mash bill would lead to a really complex bourbon, and in that regard my expectations weren’t quite met. Don’t get me wrong, it’s nice. The flavors in the bottle play well together, but it left me wanting a little bit more. That said, I’d gladly pay retail ($69.99) for a bottle, but not a penny more. 8/10
Thanks to Buffalo Trace for the sample. As always, all thoughts and opinions are my own.
Knob Creek 25th Anniversary Bourbon Review
I like the Knob Creek lineup, from the standard (now NAS) Small Batch and Single Barrel bourbons to the rye whiskey. Last year’s limited edition Knob Creek 2001 met with mixed reviews. I tried Batch 1 and thoroughly enjoyed it, though it hit close to my threshold for acceptable oak impact in a bourbon. One of the big complaints I’ve read about KC 2001 was its “low” proof. It was bottled at 100 proof, like the standard Small Batch and Rye Whiskey bottlings. Maybe Beam Suntory caught wind of the criticism and corrected it for their next release.
Enter Knob Creek 25th Anniversary. This limited edition release (rumor is about 10,000 bottles total) is an unfiltered, barrel-proof, single barrel bottling. Barrels picked for Knob Creek 25th Anniversary are between 12 – 13 years old. Sounds fantastic, no?
Even though it’s set for a June release, Knob Creek 25th is already proving controversial. The major concern among some consumers is the price. People are saying they can grab a 12 or 13 year old store pick of Knob Creek Single Barrel for $40 versus the $130 asking price for this 25th Anniversary release. They make a great point. I’m sure there amazing older store picks out there. However, older store picks aren’t available everywhere. And keep in mind the palates of the owners (or spirit buyers) who pick out single barrels of Knob Creek aren’t always great. Some of these folks simply don’t know a good whiskey from a bad one. This past weekend during the New Orleans Bourbon Festival, Jim Beam Master Distiller Fred Noe told me he is tasting and approving each barrel for this release. I trust his palate. I don’t think the $130 price tag for a barrel proof, single barrel 12-13 year old bourbon is outrageous at all. It’s priced about where it needs to be. I just see Knob Creek Single Barrel as a steal for $40.
Beam Suntory was kind enough to send out advanced samples to some reviewers and writers. I received a sample from two different barrels, both filled on 2/11/2004. I suppose this is more a preview than a review, as we’re still a few months away from the official launch. Once released, the plan is to try it again for a more in-depth look. In the meantime, here are my tasting notes and some final thoughts.
Sample 1 came in at 121.8 proof. I picked up dark brown sugar, grilled corn, black cherries, and cigar box on the nose, as well as a hint of dried vanilla pod. The palate was full of molasses and toasted grain upon entry, developing hints of herbs and roasted nuts on the mid-palate, leading to oak tannins going into the finish. The finish was warm and long, with cinnamon sticks, caramel and herbs. 8.5/10
Sample 2 was bottled at 125 proof. This one was a bit sweeter on the nose. Dark chocolate, dried figs and carmelized sugar led to hints of dark fruits, oak and spice. Taste-wise, burnt orange peel and vanilla start things off. Soon after, some bittersweet dark chocolate, cigar, cherry jam and oak spice develop. Like Sample 1, things start to become a little dry as the finish approaches. The long finish features hints of sweet oak, molasses and spice. 9.10
As expected, there is some variation between barrels. The two samples sent were quite delicious in different ways. Both feature a fair amount of oak, which is part of Knob Creek’s DNA. I didn’t find these two samples over-oaked, but like Knob Creek 2001 Batch 1, they just about hit my threshold for oak in a bourbon. The first sample came across as good as any Knob Creek Single Barrel I’ve had, but not necessarily better. The extra couple of proof points stood out in the second sample, coming across as a bit bolder than the 120 proof Knob Creek Single Barrel. I’d easily reach for more of Sample 2 if I had more.
My hope is that quality control is strictly implemented when it comes to barrel selection. Whether or not it’s “good value” is not a question I can answer for you. Personally, I think this new release is worthy of purchase, though you’re really paying for a couple of extra proof points versus the 120 proof of the standard KC Single Barrels. I don’t think Beam Suntory is going to release subpar or over-oaked barrels for this release, but I know some barrels are going to be better than others. Based on what I tasted, I think Knob Creek 25th Anniversary will sell better than last year’s 2001 release. Bottom line: If you’re a fan of Knob Creek, I’d recommend seeking out a bottle of Knob Creek 25th Anniversary when it starts hitting shelves in June.
Thanks to Beam Suntory for the samples. As always, all thoughts and opinions are my own.
Adventures In Whiskey 