Reviews

A Taste of Speyburn


Every now and then I like to sit and taste through a distillery’s whisky porfolio, and that’s just what I’m doing here with Speyburn.  Built in 1897, founder John Hopkins wanted to fill his first barrel with whisky in order to celebrate the Queen Victoria’s Diamond Jubilee. Working through some nasty winter conditions, Hopkins and team were able to fill their first barrel in December of that year, just making his self imposed deadline.  The distillery itself is located in the Speyside region.  

Speyburn isn’t that well known here in the United States, and those that do know it generally regard it as a great value pour.  The whisky coming from Speyburn is a light Highland style, so don’t look for huge peat or sherry notes here.  Their standard whisky portfolio consists of a 10-year-old whisky and two NAS whiskies, Bradan Orach and Arranta Casks.  I’ve seen the 10-year-old on the shelves of stores that have a decent whisky selection, so it’s readily available. It is a blend of American Oak ex-bourbon and ex-sherry casks.  Bradan Orach, Gaelic for “Golden Salmon”, is Speyburn’s entry level malt.  It is matured in ex-bourbon casks.  The U.S. exclusive Arranta Casks matures in first fill ex-bourbon casks.  

Speyburn 10-year-old is one of the best selling single malts in the world.  At some point it was a top ten selling malt, which may still be the case.  It’s bottled slightly above minimum at 43% abv.  My very first nosing reminded me of a less sweet Glenmorangie 10-year-old.  Both whiskies are delicate in style.  Speyburn 10yo features lightly-sweetened malt, slighty creamy caramel and a floral note.  There is also hints of sweet nectarine and spice.   On the palate, honeyed malt is complimented by hints of candied orange peel, stewed pear, pie crust, and vanilla.  The finish is a touch on the dry, slightly oaky side, and doesn’t stick around long.  Very much a light, clean whisky, and at about $25 a bottle, it’s a great value to boot!  8/10

Exclusive to the U.S. market is Speyburn Arranta Casks.  Like I mentioned before, this whisky has matured in first fill ex-bourbon barrels.  It carries no age statement, but features an even higher abv than the 10yo at 46%.  It’s priced about $40 a bottle. Those first fill ex-bourbon casks really mold the character of this release.  The nose is full of classic bourbon notes of toffee, vanilla and charred oak.  Some honeyed malt also shows through, but the richness is cut with grapefruit.  Otherwise, it’s less fruity than the 10yo.  Arranta Casks keeps a crisp flavor profile, probably due to it’s probable young age.  However, it wears its “no age statement” proudly.  A foundation of vanilla, caramel and sweet & buttery malt is supplemented by short waves of lightly-brewed green tea, orange peel, and oak spice.  That spice carries through to the medium-long, slightly dry finish.  I like this as much as I like the 10yo, albeit for different reasons.  It’s a touch drier, less fruity, and the higher proof will stand up to cocktails.  8/10

The entry level malt in Speyburn’s portfolio is the $20 Bradan Orach, another NAS whisky.  If Arranta Casks utilizes only first fill bourbon casks, my guess is there is mostly second and third fill casks here.  Brandan Orach is bottled at 40% abv and is the cheapest of the bunch.  Compared to the other two entries, this one is a bit of a disappointment.  The nose reveals a very young whisky, with sharp “green” malt, rubbing alcohol, light caramel and ripe apple.  On the palate, spiced apple, honey, and a tart citrus note slightly help mask the young malt.  The medium finish is a little sweet and mostly clean.  Rather okay-ish and without character.  With the 10 year old being such a nice whisky at a mere $5 upgrade, I see no reason to reach for Bradan Orach.  5/10

Thanks to Speyburn for the generous samples!  As always, all thoughts and opinions are my own.

New Orleans Bourbon Festival – It’s About Damn Time.

Edited to include the Legends of Bourbon seminar. 

There’s always something to do here in New Orleans. Every weekend there’s a festival in the area, whether it be the Jazz & Heritage Festival, Oyster Festival, or Shrimp & Petroleum Festival (yes, that’s a thing). But no bourbon or whiskey festival. Sure, there’s Tales of the Cocktail, but it covers all spirits and focuses on cocktails. New Orleans is a major bourbon market, and has been pretty much since the beginning. Remember that story of barrels of white whiskey being floated down the Mississippi River to New Orleans from Kentucky and picking up color and flavor along the way? Even bourbon historian Michael Veach said bourbon is named after Bourbon Street. Sazerac Company is based down here. You get the picture. We’ve been overlooked when it comes to a bourbon or whiskey festival.

Until now.

The recently announced New Orleans Bourbon Festival kicks off it’s inaugural year March 24th, 25th & 26th with three days of events planned. I recently had the chance to talk to the festival organizers, and after about three hours of chatting and a lot of whiskey, I came out excited and optimistic about their first outing. Here’s a look at some of what they have planned:

GRAND TASTINGS

There will be a big whisky tasting both Friday and Saturday night at the Sugar Mill. Ultimate VIP and VIP ticket holders get early access (and some “off menu” whiskies and possibly a unicorn or two). For all others, the Grand Tasting runs from 7:30 to 10:30. As of the writing of this post, the following brands are confirmed to show:

Diageo (Bulleit, IW Harper, Blade & Bow), Jim Beam, Virgil Kaine, Sazerac (Sazerac Rye, Buffalo Trace, Eagle Rare), Brown Forman (Cooper’s Craft, Old Forester, Woodford Reserve) Wild Turkey, Heaven Hill, Jefferson’s, Calumet Farms, and Limestone Branch.  

There are currently more than 50 different whiskies confirmed to show, but organizers are expecting 20 – 25 more to sign up soon.

SEMINARS

Saturday is filled with whiskey-related seminars. It’s not all sitting and listening to great speakers – many of these seminars include their own whiskey tasting. In terms of speakers, some very notable names are showing up and imparting some knowledge. Among the many speakers are Chuck Cowdery, Michael Veach, Bernie Lubbers and Peggy Noe Stevens.  A full updated list of all speakers and seminars can be found here.

The big one… at least the one I’m looking forward to most, is the Legends of Bourbon Seminar featuring two distilling legends: Fred Noe and Jimmy Russell.  I can’t begin to imagine the stories they’ll tell!

BOURBON DINNERS

Borrowing a page from Tales of the Cocktail’s Spirited Dinners, the New Orleans Bourbon Festival is organizing bourbon dinners at various New Orleans restaurants the night before the festival officially kicks off, Thursday, March 23rd. Heaven Hill is sponsoring a dinner at Kenton’s Restaurant, while Jim Beam is taking over the Foundation Room at the House of Blues. Jefferson’s Trey Zoeller will host a dinner at Salon by Sucre.  Festival organizers plan to announce a few more bourbon dinners as soon as they’re confirmed.

BOURBON JUDGING

On Friday, March 24th, there’s a bourbon judging event for Ultimate VIP ticket holders. Participants will blindly judge different bourbon and rye whiskies, awarding the top prizes during a Sunday brunch.  There aren’t a lot of availabilities for this event, so you’d better sign up quickly if you’re interested.

On paper, it looks like it will be a couple of great days for whiskey geeks and newbies alike.  Also, keep this in mind – at least 25% of the net profits from the festival will go directly to the St. Michael Special School, an organization very close to festival organizers.  Giving to charity earns them a great mark in my book.  

I do wish the festival great success, as it can only grow bigger and better in the future.  I’ll be attending, and hope to see you there.  I plan to update this post weekly, as news is announced.  You can also go straight to the source: neworleansbourbonfestival.com

Redemption Rye Whiskey Review

A year after Deutsch Family Wine & Spirits acquired Redemption Whiskey, the brand has seen a new bottle and label design.  Gone is that tall bottle, replaced by a more traditional whiskey bottle.  It sort of looks similar to the Bulleit bottle.  Looks good, but what about the more important matter – the whiskey?  

Redemption Rye is sourced from MGP in Indiana, using their 95% rye / 5% barley mash bill.  Rye whiskey drinkers will recognize this mash bill.  It’s the same one used for Bulleit Rye, Dickel Rye, and many others.  Don’t roll your eyes yet.  Proof, age, and other factors provide some differences between the brands using the same mash bill.  Redemption Rye is bottled at 92 proof.

Look at the label closely and you’ll notice it’s not a straight rye whiskey.  That’s because on the back it states the whiskey is aged no less than one year.  Press materials mention the average age being 2.5 years.  So it’s a young whiskey.  Nothing wrong with that.

As the young age implies, this is a grain-forward whiskey.  The nose is young and vibrant, giving a sharp rye grain note, Juicy Fruit gum, allspice and vanilla.  Taste-wise, the sharp grain is tempered by a little toffee sweetness.  A little airtime reveals some fruitiness along with grain spice and a hint of vanilla and dill.  The medium finish is sweet and a touch spicy.  

Not bad for a young rye, but my personal preference lends to rye whiskies a bit more mature.  I’d recommend this one more as a mixer than a sipper (makes a great Manhattan).  But at an SRP of $29.99, it’s a bit pricey for a mixer.  7/10

Redemptionwhiskey.com

Thanks to Redemption Whiskey for the sample!  As always, all thoughts and opinions are my own.