Game of Thrones

Review: Game of Thrones Six Kingdoms Mortlach 15-Year-Old Single Malt

Photo credit: Diageo

At last we have arrived. The HBO epic Game of Thrones is complete. Say what you will about that divisive last season (I’m on the ‘it was okay’ camp, BTW), it was a game changer in the current TV landscape. Diageo celebrated by releasing their Game of Thrones Single Malt Collection, which ranged from pleasant to very good.

The final entry in that collection is here – Six Kingdoms. According to press materials, it “pays tribute to the fate of Westeros, whose long-held Seven Kingdoms ultimately became six at the conclusion of the show’s climactic battle for the Iron Throne.”

Diageo has chosen to create a new Mortlach expression this time. The famously meaty whisky has matured in first fill sherry casks for 15 years followed by a short secondary maturation in ex-bourbon casks. The whisky has been bottled at 46% ABV and is available in limited quantities for an SRP of $150. I really like Mortlach’s recently released range of whiskies, so I’ve been anxiously awaiting this bottling. Let’s get to it.

Aromas of dried fruit, vanilla bean, toffee and oak spice characterize the nose. Taste-wise, a rich toffee sweetness coats the palate, giving way to hints of vanilla cream and dried fruit. A slight nuttiness also appears, thanks to the sherry cask maturation. A wave of baking spice. leather, and toasted oak increases in intensity through to the long, fruity, and slightly dry finish.

Of all nine whiskies of the Game of Thrones Single Malt Collection, Mortlach 15-year-old is by far the richest and most complex. The ex-bourbon barrel finishing period adds layers of creamy vanilla and caramelized sugar. Combined with Mortlach’s big and fruity nature, the result is a whisky made for toasting a special occasion, after dinner, or any time you want a damn good whisky. This is easily my favorite of the collection.

Thanks to Diageo for the sample. As always, all thoughts and opinions are my own.

Review: Game of Thrones Whisky Collection

My inner whisky geek and Game of Thrones geek unceremoniously collided with the announcement of the Game of Thrones whisky collection by Diageo.  The collection is comprised of eight different single malts representing seven houses from the show and the Night’s Watch.  Diageo already released a separate White Walker by Johnnie Walker, which I thought was pleasant enough.

The reaction for the single malt collection seemed to be that of excitement, with fans of both whisky and the popular show running out to collect all eight bottles.  There has been a little criticism, however, calling this release nothing more than a marketing gimmick.  When you think about it, the term “marketing gimmick” can be applied to every whisky release, making it an invalid argument.  This collection gives the US market a chance to not only taste new expressions from popular distilleries like Lagavulin and Talisker, but also to try official distillery bottlings never-before-released in the States.  I’m looking at you, Royal Lochnagar 12-year-old.

Obtaining a bottle or eight might be harder than you think. Diageo isn’t announcing how many bottles were produced, but I can tell you it’s not many. Several stores I visited only had one complete set to sell, and most bottles sold out rather quickly. Below are my thoughts on each expression, which will hopefully help you decide what to purchase.


HOUSE TULLY: SINGLETON OF GLENDULLAN SELECT

Water is important for both the House Tully and Glendullan, and both share the same sigil – the fish.  Catelyn Stark was a Tully until she married into the Stark family.  I have to admit – she was an extremely annoying character.  Thankfully, the whisky is a lot more approachable.  Bottled at 40% ABV, Glendullan Select features candied apples, spice and some fresh citrus on the nose.  When I mentioned ‘approachable’ earlier, I meant it.  Glendullan is easy-drinking, with hints of crisp apple, vanilla, and a sprinkling of clove and nutmeg.  Sweet malt shows up on the short, clean finish.  When I saw the $29.99 price tag, I thought I was going to taste some really young whisky. Though there may be some younger whisky here, that “green malt” note doesn’t really show up as prominently as I thought it might.  It’s vibrant, crisp, and rather well balanced.  7/10

HOUSE STARK: DALWHINNIE WINTER’S FROST

Dalwhinnie is one of Scotland’s highest distilleries, and shares some of the same frigid temperatures as Winterfell – home of the Starks.  Winter’s Frost is bottled at 43% ABV and available for $39.99.  The nose carries honey, sweet malty notes, and a little red fruit.    Taste-wise, that honeyed malt character continues, adding some dried fruit and slight spice.  The finish is medium length, leaving behind a nice orange-tinged honey note.  Dalwhinnie Winter’s Frost is a honey lover’s dram.  It certainly delivers a better finish than that of Ned Stark.  7.5/10

HOUSE BARATHEON: ROYAL LOCHNAGAR 12-YEAR-OLD

Royal Lochnagar isn’t available in the States as an official distillery bottling, so this is a treat.  Royal Lochnagar received a Royal Warrant after the royals visited in 1848.  When Game of Thrones begins, Robert Baratheon is king of the Seven Kingdoms.  So it’s fitting these two were paired.  Royal Lochnagar 12-year-old is one of only two whiskies in this collection featuring an age statement.  Bottled at 40% ABV, the nose delivers deep, rich aromas of dried fruit, anise, and oak spice.  The palate starts with hints of honey, vanilla and cocoa followed by anise, oak spice, and sherried fruit.  The finish is a bit sweet with stewed fruit at first, becoming dry as an oak note becomes more prevalent.  Even at 40% ABV, Royal Lochnagar presents itself as a bit of a decadent whisky.  One of my favorites of the collection.  8.5/10  $64.99

HOUSE TARGARYEN: CARDHU GOLD RESERVE

Both the House Targaryen and Cardhu distillery share strong female leadership – Daenerys Targaryen and Helen Cumming, who founded the distillery in the 1800s.  Cardhu Gold Reserve is bottled at 40% ABV and available for $39.99.  On the nose, Cardhu Gold Reserve is full of toffee, baked apples, and spice – an official tasting note I agree with!  The palate sees layers upon layers of creamy caramel and baked, spiced fruit.  It’s almost dessert-like.  The medium finish sees some maltiness and spice come through.  I can see Cardhu Gold Reserve served as an after dinner dram, especially during the winter.  It’s sweet, but not cloyingly so. Its richness reminds me of a sort of apple pie or baked apple dessert.  7.5/10

HOUSE TYRELL: CLYNELISH RESERVE

Clynelish distillery and House Tyrell have one thing in common: both are located in lush, green regions.  Clynelish Reserve is bottled at a high ABV of 51.2% and is available for a suggested price of $59.99.  The nose has big aromas primarily consisting of tropical fruit, orange essence, and light toffee.  Flavors are surprisingly a bit light overall, with hints of fresh pineapple, oak spice, salted caramel, and vanilla cream.  The floral finish retains a certain lightness about it.  I expected Clynelish Reserve to be a favorite, but it slightly disappointed.  The flavors are enjoyable, but the whisky lacks some depth and that lovely defining waxy fruit I adore in Clynelish.  7/10

THE NIGHT’S WATCH: OBAN BAY RESERVE

Oban distillery and the Night’s Watch share one thing: both are small in size but important.  Both also share a place that separates lands.  Oban sits  beneath a cliff separates the land and sea, while Castle Black sits at the base of the Wall separating Westeros and the land north of the wall (read: Canada). Oban Bay Reserve is bottled at 43% ABV and is available for $62.99.  The nose features rich fruity aromas alongside a helping of baking spice.  The robust palate has hints of salted dark caramel, candied fruit, freshly baked pie crust, and oak spice.  There’s also the slightest wisp of smoke here. That oak note comes through a bit more in the elegant, dry finish.  Oban Bay Reserve is fantastic, and one of the better selections in this collection.  8.5/10

HOUSE GREYJOY: TALISKER SELECT RESERVE

Oh those Greyjoys… ’nuff said.  They do reside on the Iron Islands, and there’s just about no whisky more quintessential “island” than Talisker.  Bottled at the familiar 45.8% ABV and available for $44.99, Talisker Select Reserve smells wonderful with hints of smoke, toffee, and red pepper flakes.  The palate has that familiar maritime nature, presented as seaweed.  Additionally, dried fruit meets black pepper as flavors continue to develop, all the while sitting on a bed of medium-strength campfire smoke.  Sweet smoke and spice define the long finish.  This is a wonderfully smoky Talisker expression at an unbeatable price.  Thumbs way up on this one. 8.5/10

HOUSE LANNISTER: LAGAVULIN 9-YEAR-OLD

The other age-stated whisky in the Game of Thrones Collection, Lagavulin 9-year-old represents the Lannisters.  Both are big, ferocious forces in their fields, and command respect.  This Lagavulin is bottled at 46% ABV and available for $64.99.  On the nose, that familiar Lagavulin peat smoke kicks things off, with grilled pineapple and salted toffee underneath.  Taste-wise, Lagavulin starts things off with salted caramel.  That bellowing  smoke quickly presents itself alongside vanilla, spice cake, and seaweed.  A touch of dark chocolate signals the beginning of the long, sweet, and smoky finish.  Lagavulin fans, peat fans, or those looking for a big, bold whisky should start here.  It’s just different enough from Lagavulin 8-year-old to justify a purchase.  8.5/10


Overall, the folks at Diageo have put together a collection of whiskies that cover the flavor spectrum at surprisingly affordable prices.   I enjoyed them all to some degree, with the standouts being Lagavulin, Talisker, Oban, and Royal Lochnagar.  I imagine these whiskies will be opened up and shared during Game of Thrones Season 8 viewing parties, and nothing beats giving your guests different whisky options.  The question is which one will I pour first for the season premiere?

Thanks to Diageo for the whisky samples.  As always, all thoughts and opinions are my own.

Review: Johnnie Walker White Walker Blended Scotch Whisky

White Walker by Johnnie Walker.  There couldn’t have been a better partnership between Diageo and one of my favorite programs, Game of Thrones.   In fact, this blend is only the first release of this partnership.  Diageo has just released eight single malts tied to the different houses in the show.

Johnnie Walker blenders started with Cardhu and Clynelish.  The fruit-heavy flavors from those distilleries are very present, as you’ll read in my tasting notes.  White Walker is bottled at 41.7% ABV and available for $36 a bottle.  The packaging needs a bit of mention.  The bottle is wrapped as such to reveal icy blue writing and marks as the bottle reaches freezing temperatures.  Winter is here, indeed.

I typically taste whisky at room temperature.  However, the makers of this blend have created one that is meant to be served straight from the freezer. Before you start writing angry comments below, I know a lower temperature subdues the bouquet on the nose and the flavors on the palate.  However, whisky drinking is supposed to be fun.  Let’s let our preverbal hair down with this one.

Right out of the freezer, the nose shows some honey and sweet grain, as well as red fruit.  The palate maintains a sweet profile, with hints of creme brûlée, berries, and honey.  There’s a bit of vibrant sweet grain underneath. The clean finish evokes hints of caramelized fruit and a slight sprinkling of spice.  As the whisky warms to room temperature, it expectedly becomes a bit more aromatic on the nose.  More caramel and vanilla appear on the palate, and the finish becomes noticeably longer and richer.

The show tie-in and cool bottle aside, White Walker is a sweet and pleasant blend, but I wouldn’t call it a complex one.  This whisky is designed to be served cold in a tumbler and sipped while watching Game of Thrones.  I doubt it is meant to be dissected in a glencairn glass while writing lots of tasting notes… which is exactly what this writer did for this review.  It’s enjoyable enough.  I can sip on this, which is more than I can say for Red Label.  Overall, not too shabby.   7/10

johnniewalker.com

Thanks to Johnnie Walker for the sample.  As always, all thoughts and opinions are my own.