Reviews

A Taste of Bowmore Whiskies

Photo courtesy of Bowmore Distillery.

Photo courtesy of Bowmore Distillery.

Nestled on the eastern coast of Loch Indaal on Islay, Bowmore sits proudly as one of the oldest distilleries in Scotland.  It was founded in 1779, making it almost as old as the U.S.  The distillery is currently owned by Beam Suntory.  Each batch is overseen by Master Blender Rachel Barrie.

Bowmore produces a peaty whiskey, but it’s not as full and heavy as Laphroaig or Ardbeg whiskies.  The distillery still manages a small amount of traditional floor maltings, but the majority of malted barley comes from the mainland.

Traditional floor maltings at Bowmore.

Picture supplied by SNS Group/Peter Devlin

Their standard range includes Bowmore Small Batch along with 12-year, 15-year, 18-year and 25-year-old expressions.  Let’s take a look at their expressions.

Bowmore Small Batch

Photo courtesy of Bowmore Distillery.

Photo courtesy of Bowmore Distillery.

Bottled at 40% and available for a suggested price of $39.99, Bowmore Small Batch is the only non-age stated (NAS) whisky in their core lineup.  It’s composed of whiskies aged in first and second fill ex-bourbon casks.  The nose is a tad on the younger side, and gives soft vanilla and fruit notes under a blanket of easy going peat.  The peat comes across like a bandage.  Taste-wise, I get a saccharine sweetness carrying spice, vanilla, and peat.  A crisp citrus note shows up in the mid-palate and follows through into the medium length finish.

After a couple of tastings, I can’t get into this expression.  It tastes okay, but isn’t spectacular or memorable.

My problem isn’t the lack of age statement on the label – that never really bothers me.  After all, the Scotch industry is headed that way regardless, so it’s best to get on board now.

In the case of this expression of Bowmore, I think it’s a combination of NAS and low proof.  A 46% abv version of this might give this whisky a much needed shot in the arm.

6.5/10

Bowmore 12-Year-Old

Photo courtesy of Bowmore Distillery.

Photo courtesy of Bowmore Distillery.

The nose on this 12-year-old expression of Bowmore is a bit punchier than it’s younger NAS sibling.  The peat is showcased more here, providing a slightly ashy smoke and iodine combination.  There’s a nice honey note providing the sweetness, along with lemon zest.  I best describe the entry as a “sweet bandage”.  That may be the strangest tasting note I’ve ever written. There’s clover honey and smoky ash accompanied by vanilla.  Mid-palate, lemon curd provides a tartness and creaminess to the tasting experience.  The sweet/ashy/citrus finish hangs around for a few minutes.  This is one of the few times the official distillery tasting notes are on par with my own tasting notes.

Bowmore 12-year-old is a much more refined and “complete” expression when compared to the Small Batch whisky.  Sure it’s peaty, but this whisky retains a light and crisp quality I don’t normally associate with Islay whiskies.  While it’s a nice dram, Bowmore 12 year isn’t one to dissect for an hour.  Pour a glass, sip, and enjoy.  A bottle should cost around $50.

7.5/10

Bowmore 15-Year-Old “The Darkest”

Photo courtesy of Bowmore Distillery

Photo courtesy of Bowmore Distillery

This darker colored 15-year-old expression from Bowmore is aged in a combination of ex-bourbon casks and ex-sherry casks, giving it the nickname of “The Darkest.”  Also of note is the slight raise in proof – 43% abv.

Those sherry casks provide a nice fruitiness and richness on the nose.   Dried fruits, vanilla, citrus and peat are the prominent aromas.  Toffee provides the rich sweet note.  On the palate, a quick hit of spice opens into a blast of orange zest and tropical fruit.  The peat note is not as prevalent as it is in the younger Bowmore expressions.  Again, the toffee note from the nose adds some sweet creaminess.  An ashy smoke note turns up at the back palate going into the long finish.

Bowmore 15-year is my favorite of the bunch.  I have a soft spot for sherried Islay whiskies.  The sherry casks provide another layer of complexity that I think this whisky benefits from.  It’s not as light in style as the Small Batch or 12-year-old, but that’s okay.  This expression carries a $65 price tag, making it $15 more expensive than the 12-year-old.   Totally worth it, as far as I’m concerned.  Recommended!

8/10

(Note: Review samples were provided by Bowmore.)

Crown Royal XO and XR Canadian Whisky Reviews

This past Christmas a friend of mine at work struck up a conversation with me about whiskey.  Specifically Crown Royal.  She’s a fan of their standard Crown Royal  blend, and asked my opinion regarding Crown Royal XO and XR.  Unfortunately, I’ve never tasted either so I couldn’t help her out.  I reached out to the folks at Crown Royal, and they kindly sent over samples for me to try.

Crown Royal XO

Photo courtesy of Crown Royal.

Photo courtesy of Crown Royal.

Crown Royal XO is a blend of over 50 whiskies owned by Crown Royal.  The matured whisky is then finished in ex-cognac casks.  It’s bottled at 40% abv and available for around $50.  The cognac barrel finishing is evident on the nose.  The nose is soft and sweet, as expected from a Crown Royal.  However, there’s a slight dry or astringent oak, vanilla and a touch of maple syrup.  The low abv softens the palate a bit and brings about fruit, caramel, and a little oak spice.  It feels a tad more complex than the standard blend.  The finish is rather light and short, leaving behind vanilla custard.

This is a step up from the standard Crown Royal blend.  However, it still comes across a bit light to me.  Beefing up the alcohol percentage to 43% or 46% would help this release, in my opinion.  Nonetheless, if you’re just looking for a light, sweet whisky, this would be right up your alley.

7.5/10

Crown Royal XR

Photo courtesy of Crown Royal.

Photo courtesy of Crown Royal.

Part of the Extra Rare series, this blend of Crown Royal XR features some of the last whisky from the now closed LaSalle distillery.  Crown Royal Master Blender Andrew MacKay was aiming for a richer blend when creating Crown Royal XR.  That richness is something the LaSalle distillery is known for producing.  Bottled at the standard 40% abv, Crown Royal XR smells great.  Thick maple syrup and rounded rye spice (as opposed to a sharp rye spice) dominate the nose.  This is Crown Royal we’re talking about, so it’s still a light nose.  Taste-wise, the entry isn’t an immediate sweetness.  Instead, a slight sharp grain note quickly develops into a rich, sweet syrup.  Some spice pops up along the way, along with a touch of dry oak and vanilla.  This whisky has a moderately long finish full of sweet and spicy oak.

There’s a nice complexity in this release, and it may be among my favorite Crown Royal blends.  Not my favorite though… that title still belongs to Crown Royal Hand Selected Barrel.  Still, this one holds up in the glass, and is a worthy pour for fans of Crown Royal.  A bottle of Crown Royal XR should run cost about $130.

8/10
(Note: Review samples were provided by Diageo.)

Lagniappe – Copper & Kings CR&FTWERK

The secret about Copper & Kings is starting to leak:  Owner Joe Heron is putting out some delicious brandy.  However, Heron is not content just resting on his laurels.  He’s always looking to the future, and the next phase is what Copper & Kings is calling their CR&FTWERK series.

Heron is taking matured American brandy and aging it for an additional 12 months in American craft beer barrels.  To go a little deeper, brandy enters the finishing barrels at 130 proof.  After the finishing process is complete, the brandy is proofed down to 55.5% abv, or 111 proof, for bottling.  As always, Heron does not chill filter and his brandy contains no flavors or coloring.

Due out in March of 2016, the first four expressions use barrels from 3 Floyds Dark Lord, Sierra Nevada Smoked Imperial Porter, Oskar Blues G’Knight & Deviant Dale’s, and Against the Grain Mae Fanny Baw.  I’m told this is a continuing series, as Heron is already working with additional breweries.

I asked Joe about his process for choosing the finishing barrels.  He had the following to say:

They need to be fresh and “juicy”.  We want to work with the finest brewers, and represent them well.  We look at different beer styles.  Porters and stouts are obviously good for aging brandy, but we are excited by Scottish ales, IPA’s, and barley wine and lager wine barrels that we plan on using.  We want some diversity in beer styles.  It is a partnership so we want the beers aged in our barrels to be amazing.

Let’s get to the tasting.  It was suggested I try these neat, then again with ice or water.

3 Floyds Dark Lord Finish

Right off the bat, the beer barrel finishing is evident.  Those fruity and caramel brandy flavors are there, but are complimented by a malty note.  A small bitter herbal note is also present.  The high proof pack this brandy with a wallop of flavor, and give it a slightly chewy character.  I get a dark roast coffee and molasses, along with stewed fruit and spice.  That malty note from the nose is here as well.  The long finish is bittersweet  and is where the beer notes really shine.  A splash of water bring the beer character up front, while the brandy notes play second fiddle.

Sierra Nevada Smoked Imperial Porter Finish

The nose for this expression is mainly brandy.  The beer barrel finish here is a tad more subdued, adding spice, herbs, and a touch of orange peel.  That’s where the subtlety ends.  The palate is hops & malt, caramel and fruit.  It’s not as malty as the 3 Floyds Dark Lord-finished expression.  A slightly burnt sugar note carries over to the crisp finish.  Some water brings out the hops on the nose, and bring forward the caramel and hops on the palate.  It also unveils a slight smokiness.

Oskar Blues G’Knight & Deviant Dale’s Finish

What’s nice about this specific expression is the fruity nature of the brandy is left largely intact.  The barrel finish kicks up a fresh, citrus note and some hoppy notes.  Copper & Kings’ official tasting notes are largely spot on:  “Clean, crisp, hints of black pepper.”  It almost comes across as a bit of citrus immediately followed by a slightly dry and spicy note.  Where sometimes brandy can be a bit “heavy,” it’s quite the opposite with this expression.  An ice cube brings about a slight caramel on the nose and palate, and up the hops.  Very fresh.  This would make a great summertime porch dram.

Against The Grain Mac Fanny Baw Finish

This expression smells like a rich whiskey – caramel, vanilla, fruit and a touch of oak char.  I even get some brininess.  If you gave this to me blind, I’d say this is a barrel-finished Island scotch whisky.  Taste-wise, there are no surprises on the palate – vanilla, toffee, brine, fruit and a faint touch of smoke.  Think Talisker with the smoke dialed way down and the fruit notes turned up.  The finish is spicy, long and sweet.  Add ice and the sweet notes become more prominent.


Joe Heron and his team at Copper & Kings have hit another home run with these upcoming releases.  Although the flavors presented here might not appeal to everyone, I think these brandies are interesting enough to create some new hardcore fans for the brand.  I applaud Heron’s decision to experiment with barrel-finishing his brandy, and can’t wait to taste what Copper & Kings releases next.

(Note: Review samples were provided by Copper & Kings.)