Beam Suntory

Basil Hayden’s Rye Whiskey Review

Last year saw the one-time Booker’s Rye variant of the Jim Beam’s Small Batch collection hit the market to high praise.  This year have Basil Hayden’s Rye.  Will it hold a candle to Booker’s Rye, or is it fair to compare?

During this year’s New Orleans Bourbon Fest, Beam Master Distiller Fred Noe told me he consulted with Laphroaig Distillery Manager John Campbell for some insight as to how they use quarter casks.  The resulting whiskey is Basil Hayden’s Rye.  According to press materials, this one-time release starts as a four-year-old rye whiskey.  There’s no mention of mashbill, but I’d guess it’s the standard Beam rye mashbill.  This four-year-old rye is re-barreled into newly charred quarter casks and is further aged seven years.  A small amount of the rebarreled rye is blended with the traditional rye to make this release.  

This is the first time I can remember quarter casks being used by one of the major American whiskey producers.  Some craft distilleries use them, and the results can be mixed.  At the same time I’m very familiar with Laphroaig Quarter Cask.  Using this type of casks usually results in a different kind of oak (and everything oak brings with it) flavor to whiskey.  Laphroaig is an example of a producer utilizing these casks for a positive influence.  What about Basil Hayden’s Rye?

The nose on the rye is both slightly youngish and oaky, but not offputting like some craft whiskies I’ve encountered.  There’s some rye spice right off the bat, along with hints of toffee, barrel char, and baking spices, with cardamon being most dominant.  The entry is a bit thin, due to the lower proof, but things pick up.  The rye spice on the nose isn’t as evident here, but it provides a touch of sharpness to the flavor, complimented by green tea.  Spiced caramel adds some sweetness, and vanilla pods add to its complexity.  Then oak tannins take over and begin drying things out for the finish, which is bittersweet and dry.  

If you’ve had the Basil Hayden’s bourbon, the new rye whiskey will be familiar. Both are bottled at 80 proof, and both should be considered “mellow.”  Basil Hayden’s Rye is less sweet, spicier, oakier, and drier than its bourbon sibling.  The quarter cask maturation really magnifies the oak and astringency, as well as a more layered vanilla note.  

I’d love to see this at a higher proof, but then it probably couldn’t be bottled under the Basil Hayden banner.  Maybe next year there’ll be a special Knob Creek Rye we can enjoy at 100 proof.  That’d be fantastic!  That said, there is absolutely nothing wrong with this whiskey as is.  Like Basil Hayden, it’s approachable and designed for someone new to whiskey or someone not looking for a BIG whiskey (read: cask strength) experience.  And nicely priced to boot!  Bottles are selling for around $45.  8.5/10

Thanks to Beam Suntory for the sample.  As always, all thoughts and opinions are my own.

Booker’s Bourbon Batch 2016-06 “Noe Hard Times” Review

My first whiskey review of 2017 is of one of the most controversial newsmakers of the past year – Booker’s bourbon.  Batch 2016-06 is the last batch of 2016, and the last to carry the old SRP of $59.99.  Beam Suntory has decided to raise the price of Booker’s to $99.99, only to come back with the decision to gradually raise the price.  We’ll first see a small increase to $69.99 in the beginning of 2017 with the next batch, followed by an eventual increase to $74.99 by the end of the year.  I think it’s a move they should have made from the start, as I agree with the company in that Booker’s has been undervalued. A few years ago $50-$60 was just the right price for this whiskey, one I’ve called the best regular production bourbon in the Jim Beam staple.  However, in today’s current bourbon market, where $100 seems to be the new $50, I’m not so upset seeing Booker’s eventually make it to the $100 price range.  There’s currently nothing in the Beam lineup in that price range, and it’d be an idiotic move to not bump up the price.  Yes, they shouldn’t have announced the immediate jump, but they’ve since rethought things (or looked through their anger-filled Twitter feed) and decided upon the incremental price rise.  There will be many of you who disagree, and that’s perfectly fine.  I’ve shared my thoughts and have nothing more to say on the matter.  Now, to the more urgent matter at hand, and the reason you’re here – onwards to the review!

“Noe Hard Times” remembers Booker Noe’s nickname during his football-playing youth.  Jim Beam Master Distiller Fred Noe said this about this current release:

Dad was larger-than-life in personality and stature, and possessed both from an early age. Needless to say, no team in central Kentucky wanted to line up against such a formidable opponent. This, combined with a birthday in December 1929, just on the cusp of the Great Depression, earned him the nickname “Hard Times” on and off the field.

Batch 2016-06 comes from six different rack houses and six different production dates.  It’s bottled uncut and unfiltered at 127.8 proof and is aged a minimum of 6 years, 10 months, and 1 day.

The nose is full of big vanilla and baked corn notes, as well as hints of wood smoke, burnt sugar, black cherries and roasted peanuts.  Booker’s slightly oily and somewhat creamy entry features vanilla bean, cherry cola, barrel char and sweet corn.  A touch of herbs fill the back palate.  Cinnamon sticks and caramel chews linger on the long, warm finish.

As expected, we have another great batch of Booker’s bourbon.  Sure, the pricing controversy has overshadowed this batch, but rest assured – this is the Booker’s bourbon we all know and love.  8.5/10

Thanks to Booker’s Bourbon for the sample.  As always, all thoughts and opinions are my own.

Laphroaig Cairdeas 2016

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Oh Laphroaig, how I love thee.

There’s something about that peaty punch in the face…

Since becoming a fan, every spring/summer I await the news of the new Laphroaig Cairdeas.  Each year’s expression is different.  It usually debuts at Feis Ile, Islay’s Music and Malt festival.  Last year’s release was really nice – a throwback to how Laphroaig was made many years ago.

The 2016 edition of Laphroaig Cairdeas is Madeira Cask finished.  Many fans remember the 2013 Cairdeas release, a port-finished whisky.  The excitement level remains high.  I love wine cask finished peaty whiskies.  The smoke and fruit combination just does it for me.

Distillery Manager John Campbell took “fully matured” Laphroaig aged in ex-bourbon casks and moved the whisky to Madeira seasoned casks.  There’s no age statement here, and no indication of how long the second maturation lasted.  Rumor has it this is 8-9 year old Laphroaig.  Doesn’t really matter, does it?  This release is bottled at 51.6% abv, or 103 proof.  It’s not for the faint of heart.  Let’s get to the tasting.

That Laphroaig “iodine” peat character is present in the nose, as one would expect.  It’s joined by ripe red fruit, toffee and black pepper.  At such a high proof, this whisky packs a little heat upon entry.  Past that is a balancing act of bright citrus (fresh tangerines), smoke, seaweed and herbs (think rosemary). The citrus cuts through the heavy smoke, giving it some welcome vibrancy.  The herbal notes sit right in the middle, along with toasted malt, cinnamon and light toffee.  The long finish leaves behind spiced orange and a bit of smoke.

Let’s put another mark in the “W” column with this release.  Campbell made a wise decision using Madeira casks for a second maturation.  The fortified wine beautifully integrates with the heavy Laphroaig distillery character.  I know some purists who don’t care for secondary maturation.  I urge them, and any curious readers, to try a glass.  This may be one to change their minds.  There is no word on the number of bottles in this release, but it’s limited.  A bottle will cost about $75.  Highly recommended!  8.5/10

Thanks to Laphroaig for the sample.  As always, thoughts and opinions are my own.