whisky review

A Taste of Bowmore Whiskies
Photo courtesy of Bowmore Distillery.

Photo courtesy of Bowmore Distillery.

Nestled on the eastern coast of Loch Indaal on Islay, Bowmore sits proudly as one of the oldest distilleries in Scotland.  It was founded in 1779, making it almost as old as the U.S.  The distillery is currently owned by Beam Suntory.  Each batch is overseen by Master Blender Rachel Barrie.

Bowmore produces a peaty whiskey, but it’s not as full and heavy as Laphroaig or Ardbeg whiskies.  The distillery still manages a small amount of traditional floor maltings, but the majority of malted barley comes from the mainland.

Traditional floor maltings at Bowmore.

Picture supplied by SNS Group/Peter Devlin

Their standard range includes Bowmore Small Batch along with 12-year, 15-year, 18-year and 25-year-old expressions.  Let’s take a look at their expressions.

Bowmore Small Batch

Photo courtesy of Bowmore Distillery.

Photo courtesy of Bowmore Distillery.

Bottled at 40% and available for a suggested price of $39.99, Bowmore Small Batch is the only non-age stated (NAS) whisky in their core lineup.  It’s composed of whiskies aged in first and second fill ex-bourbon casks.  The nose is a tad on the younger side, and gives soft vanilla and fruit notes under a blanket of easy going peat.  The peat comes across like a bandage.  Taste-wise, I get a saccharine sweetness carrying spice, vanilla, and peat.  A crisp citrus note shows up in the mid-palate and follows through into the medium length finish.

After a couple of tastings, I can’t get into this expression.  It tastes okay, but isn’t spectacular or memorable.

My problem isn’t the lack of age statement on the label – that never really bothers me.  After all, the Scotch industry is headed that way regardless, so it’s best to get on board now.

In the case of this expression of Bowmore, I think it’s a combination of NAS and low proof.  A 46% abv version of this might give this whisky a much needed shot in the arm.

6.5/10

Bowmore 12-Year-Old

Photo courtesy of Bowmore Distillery.

Photo courtesy of Bowmore Distillery.

The nose on this 12-year-old expression of Bowmore is a bit punchier than it’s younger NAS sibling.  The peat is showcased more here, providing a slightly ashy smoke and iodine combination.  There’s a nice honey note providing the sweetness, along with lemon zest.  I best describe the entry as a “sweet bandage”.  That may be the strangest tasting note I’ve ever written. There’s clover honey and smoky ash accompanied by vanilla.  Mid-palate, lemon curd provides a tartness and creaminess to the tasting experience.  The sweet/ashy/citrus finish hangs around for a few minutes.  This is one of the few times the official distillery tasting notes are on par with my own tasting notes.

Bowmore 12-year-old is a much more refined and “complete” expression when compared to the Small Batch whisky.  Sure it’s peaty, but this whisky retains a light and crisp quality I don’t normally associate with Islay whiskies.  While it’s a nice dram, Bowmore 12 year isn’t one to dissect for an hour.  Pour a glass, sip, and enjoy.  A bottle should cost around $50.

7.5/10

Bowmore 15-Year-Old “The Darkest”

Photo courtesy of Bowmore Distillery

Photo courtesy of Bowmore Distillery

This darker colored 15-year-old expression from Bowmore is aged in a combination of ex-bourbon casks and ex-sherry casks, giving it the nickname of “The Darkest.”  Also of note is the slight raise in proof – 43% abv.

Those sherry casks provide a nice fruitiness and richness on the nose.   Dried fruits, vanilla, citrus and peat are the prominent aromas.  Toffee provides the rich sweet note.  On the palate, a quick hit of spice opens into a blast of orange zest and tropical fruit.  The peat note is not as prevalent as it is in the younger Bowmore expressions.  Again, the toffee note from the nose adds some sweet creaminess.  An ashy smoke note turns up at the back palate going into the long finish.

Bowmore 15-year is my favorite of the bunch.  I have a soft spot for sherried Islay whiskies.  The sherry casks provide another layer of complexity that I think this whisky benefits from.  It’s not as light in style as the Small Batch or 12-year-old, but that’s okay.  This expression carries a $65 price tag, making it $15 more expensive than the 12-year-old.   Totally worth it, as far as I’m concerned.  Recommended!

8/10

(Note: Review samples were provided by Bowmore.)

Black Bottle Blended Scotch Whisky Review
Photo courtesy of Black Bottle.

Photo courtesy of Black Bottle.

Black Bottle’s story begins back in 1879, when Aberdeen tea blender Gordon Graham put together a blended scotch whisky.  Their blend used some whiskies from Islay, making the final product a bit peaty.  Fast forward to now, and apparently the blend has changed.  According to whiskey vlogger Ralfy, the blend lost its Islay charms in the past few years.  I haven’t tasted the blend from years back, so I’m starting with a clean slate here.  Press materials state that Black Bottle is made from four single malts, including Bunnahabain from Islay, Deanston from the Highlands, and Tobermory and Ledaig from the Isle of Mull.  Due to it labeled as a blended whisky and not a blended malt whisky, there is grain whisky present as well.

This whisky is presented in its distinctive black glass bottle.  Nice looking, might I add.  As of January 2016, Black Bottle is available primarily in New York, New Jersey, California, Illinois, Connecticut, and Florida.  It’s also available in parts of Oklahoma, Arizona, Texas, Maryland, Delaware, Kentucky and Georgia.  Suggested retail price is $20-$25.

I can best describe the nose of Black Bottle as rich, sweet and slightly smoky.  Upfront is creamy toffee alongside a touch of vanilla pudding and oak.  The small smoky note lingers in the background, and simply adds a layer of complexity.  Stewed fruit shows up with a little airtime in the glass.  The entry is a little soft, probably due to the low alcohol percentage (40%).  Thankfully, however, it retains a thicker body than expected.  The rich, creamy vanilla and fruit notes from the nose carry over onto the palate.  Honey is also present, providing some sweetness.  Just like on the nose, smoke is a supporting player here.  Unfortunately, the finish doesn’t last too long, and you’re left with a hint of clove honey and ash.

This is a $20 blend??  Smack me on the head.  Had I not had the pricing information in front of me, I’d easily guess this was a $40 whisky.  It tastes more expensive than it actually is.  Given the price and the quality of this blend, I can easily recommend it.  Black Bottle would make a great addition to a spread of whiskies you’d give to someone interested in “smoky” Scotch.  I’d actually serve this before Johnnie Walker Black Label.  Black Bottle not as smoke-forward as that blend.  Rather, it’s richer and more balanced.  Solid pour.  Nicely done!

8.0/10
(Note: A review sample was provided by Black Bottle.)

Laphroaig Cairdeas 2015 Single Malt Scotch Whisky Review
Photo courtesy of Laphroaig.

Photo courtesy of Laphroaig.

Laphroaig’s 200th anniversary year-long celebration saw the release of several expressions this year.  Released during this year’s Fèis Ìle, Laphroaig’s annual Cairdeas (Gaelic for “friendship”) release is highly anticipated by Laphroaig fans.  The 2015 release is bottled at 51.5% abv and available for around $75.  According to the Laphroaig website:

The 2015 bottling is produced from of our finest floor malting’s malt, distilled using only the smaller stills and fully matured in our famous No1 warehouse, right by the sea. Cairdeas 2015 is therefore John’s interpretation of how Laphroaig would have been produced at the distillery 200 years ago.

100% Laphroaig floor maltings?  Distilled only in their smaller stills?  If this doesn’t get you excited, you might as well give up drinking Scotch.

Big “Laphroaig smoke” on the nose, alongside ripe fruit like apples and pineapples and lemon zest.  A touch of honey and oak round things off.  Taste wise, I get smoked caramel and peat right up front.  Underneath is a bed of candied orange, wet bandages, sea salt and charred oak.  The finish is long, with ash smoke and a sweet citrus-fruit note running through.

This is a full-bodied whisky that isn’t as peaty as Laphroaig 10-year, and showcases nice fruit notes throughout.  I love the citrus aspect running thoughout the entire experience, and think this is a better blend than their 15-year.  Tasting this whisky at night, I’m afraid I’m going to have “Laphroaig mouth” in the morning, and that isn’t a bad thing!  Another delightful release from Laphroaig.

8.5/10
(Note: A small review sample was provided by Laphroaig.)