Beam Suntory

A Taste of Bowmore Whiskies

Photo courtesy of Bowmore Distillery.

Photo courtesy of Bowmore Distillery.

Nestled on the eastern coast of Loch Indaal on Islay, Bowmore sits proudly as one of the oldest distilleries in Scotland.  It was founded in 1779, making it almost as old as the U.S.  The distillery is currently owned by Beam Suntory.  Each batch is overseen by Master Blender Rachel Barrie.

Bowmore produces a peaty whiskey, but it’s not as full and heavy as Laphroaig or Ardbeg whiskies.  The distillery still manages a small amount of traditional floor maltings, but the majority of malted barley comes from the mainland.

Traditional floor maltings at Bowmore.

Picture supplied by SNS Group/Peter Devlin

Their standard range includes Bowmore Small Batch along with 12-year, 15-year, 18-year and 25-year-old expressions.  Let’s take a look at their expressions.

Bowmore Small Batch

Photo courtesy of Bowmore Distillery.

Photo courtesy of Bowmore Distillery.

Bottled at 40% and available for a suggested price of $39.99, Bowmore Small Batch is the only non-age stated (NAS) whisky in their core lineup.  It’s composed of whiskies aged in first and second fill ex-bourbon casks.  The nose is a tad on the younger side, and gives soft vanilla and fruit notes under a blanket of easy going peat.  The peat comes across like a bandage.  Taste-wise, I get a saccharine sweetness carrying spice, vanilla, and peat.  A crisp citrus note shows up in the mid-palate and follows through into the medium length finish.

After a couple of tastings, I can’t get into this expression.  It tastes okay, but isn’t spectacular or memorable.

My problem isn’t the lack of age statement on the label – that never really bothers me.  After all, the Scotch industry is headed that way regardless, so it’s best to get on board now.

In the case of this expression of Bowmore, I think it’s a combination of NAS and low proof.  A 46% abv version of this might give this whisky a much needed shot in the arm.

6.5/10

Bowmore 12-Year-Old

Photo courtesy of Bowmore Distillery.

Photo courtesy of Bowmore Distillery.

The nose on this 12-year-old expression of Bowmore is a bit punchier than it’s younger NAS sibling.  The peat is showcased more here, providing a slightly ashy smoke and iodine combination.  There’s a nice honey note providing the sweetness, along with lemon zest.  I best describe the entry as a “sweet bandage”.  That may be the strangest tasting note I’ve ever written. There’s clover honey and smoky ash accompanied by vanilla.  Mid-palate, lemon curd provides a tartness and creaminess to the tasting experience.  The sweet/ashy/citrus finish hangs around for a few minutes.  This is one of the few times the official distillery tasting notes are on par with my own tasting notes.

Bowmore 12-year-old is a much more refined and “complete” expression when compared to the Small Batch whisky.  Sure it’s peaty, but this whisky retains a light and crisp quality I don’t normally associate with Islay whiskies.  While it’s a nice dram, Bowmore 12 year isn’t one to dissect for an hour.  Pour a glass, sip, and enjoy.  A bottle should cost around $50.

7.5/10

Bowmore 15-Year-Old “The Darkest”

Photo courtesy of Bowmore Distillery

Photo courtesy of Bowmore Distillery

This darker colored 15-year-old expression from Bowmore is aged in a combination of ex-bourbon casks and ex-sherry casks, giving it the nickname of “The Darkest.”  Also of note is the slight raise in proof – 43% abv.

Those sherry casks provide a nice fruitiness and richness on the nose.   Dried fruits, vanilla, citrus and peat are the prominent aromas.  Toffee provides the rich sweet note.  On the palate, a quick hit of spice opens into a blast of orange zest and tropical fruit.  The peat note is not as prevalent as it is in the younger Bowmore expressions.  Again, the toffee note from the nose adds some sweet creaminess.  An ashy smoke note turns up at the back palate going into the long finish.

Bowmore 15-year is my favorite of the bunch.  I have a soft spot for sherried Islay whiskies.  The sherry casks provide another layer of complexity that I think this whisky benefits from.  It’s not as light in style as the Small Batch or 12-year-old, but that’s okay.  This expression carries a $65 price tag, making it $15 more expensive than the 12-year-old.   Totally worth it, as far as I’m concerned.  Recommended!

8/10

(Note: Review samples were provided by Bowmore.)

The Complete Maker’s Mark Lineup

Photo courtesy of Maker's Mark.

Photo courtesy of Maker’s Mark.

Back in the mid-1950s, Bill Samuels, Sr. bought a distillery in Loretto, Kentucky.  According to company lore, Samuels was trying to come up with a recipe for his whisky.  Distilling and aging whiskies with different mashbills takes years, time Samuels didn’t have.  He, or his wife Marjorie, depending on who is telling the story, baked several loaves of bread with different grain recipes.  The lone wheat bread was chosen as the best tasting.  From there, it’s said Julian “Pappy” Van Winkle, whose company distilled whiskey with a corn-wheat-barley mashbill, helped Samuels with a few wheated bourbon recipes.  A mashbill was settled upon, and distillation and aging began.

Marjorie is credited with coming up with the name “Maker’s Mark” as well as designing the label.  That iconic trademarked bottle hand dipped in red wax was also her idea.  The first bottle of Maker’s Mark came off the line on May 8, 1958 at 90 proof.  Maker’s Mark has been priced at a slight premium compared to others, and it was marketed that way.

Photo courtesy of Maker's Mark.

Photo courtesy of Maker’s Mark.

Maker’s Mark is one of the only distilleries that routinely rotates its barrels in the warehouses.  They claim it helps achieve more even aging and consistency in their whisky.  Their bourbon is bottled in small batches, which they describe as no more than 19 barrels.

For more than half a century, the stubborn Samuels family (Bill Samuels, Sr. passed the reigns to his son, Bill Samuels, Jr., who recently passed the torch to his son Rob.) only had the one product.  In 2008, their first new expression was released – Maker’s 46.  Standard Maker’s Mark bourbon was finished for several months in ex-Maker’s Mark barrels.  Seared French Oak staves were placed in these barrels, giving the bourbon an extra kick of vanilla, spice and boldness.

Then, in 2014, the company released a cask strength version of their standard Maker’s Mark bourbon.  Initially sold only at the distillery in 375ml bottles, Maker’s Mark Cask Strength can now be found in stores in full sized 750ml bottles.  Most recently, Maker’s 46 Cask Strength bourbon began selling at the distillery gift shop in 2015.  Let’s take a look their expressions.


Maker’s Mark

Makers Mark

The lone bourbon expression from the distillery for more than 50 years, and the one that started it all, Maker’s Mark is bottled at 90 proof.  It’s available just about everywhere for about $24.99 for a 750ml bottle.  I’d best describe the standard Maker’s whisky as sweet and soft.  The nose is saccharine sweet, with vanilla and light-brown sugar as the dominating aromas.  Far in the background is a bit of sweet corn and just the slightest touch of oak.  It is not complex, but what’s here is nice.   The first thing that hits you on the palate is brown sugar.  The ever-present bourbon vanilla note is strong here as well.  Some slightly drying oak shows up towards the back of the palate, into a short, clean finish.  I see why lots of people are fans of Maker’s Mark.  It’s a classic, simple bourbon that will please anyone just getting into American whiskey.   For my taste, I prefer something with a little more spice and complexity.

7/10


Maker’s Mark Cask Strength

Initially released in 375ml bottles, Maker’s Mark Cask Strength (MMCS) arrived to mostly positive reviews.  I always thought the standard Maker’s was just okay.  When I saw this bottle sitting on a shelf, Makers Mark CSI picked it up.  Several months later, MMCS rolled out across the country with full sized 750ml bottles, retailing for a suggested price of $59.99.  My bottle is from batch 14-02.  It’s a full strength 113.3 proof. As expected for barrel strength whisky, the nose here is concentrated.  The same notes found in the standard bottling – brown sugar and vanilla sweetness – is found here, but in a more robust fashion.  Also here is a small mint note I don’t find in Maker’s Mark.  Taste-wise, the higher alcohol slightly tingles the tongue, but also explodes with a blast of flavors.  Vanilla, light brown sugar and a bit of orange peel parade around your mouth.  Like the standard Maker’s, MMCS brings about some drying oak before heading into a much longer finish.  It’s warming and has a bit of a nutty and creamy caramel note.  MMCS is about double the cost of the standard Maker’s Mark.  It’s a much bolder bourbon, mainly because of the higher proof.  I prefer it to the base expression hands down.  It’s still not the most complex bourbon around, but drinking this is a much richer experience.

8.5/10


Maker’s 46

Makers 46After about a year and a half of experimenting with different methods of  coming up with richer version of Maker’s Mark, the folks at the distillery, led by Master Distiller Greg Davis, finally came up with something they liked.  Maker’s 46 is a bourbon that’s finished in a secondary barrel.  Fully matured Maker’s Mark, aged between 6 and 7 years, lives a short life in a used Maker’s Mark barrel lined with 10 seared French Oak staves.  After a few months, that bourbon is ready to be bottled as Maker’s 46.  I like that it’s bottled at 94 proof, which is slightly higher than the standard Maker’s Mark’s 90 proof.

Those French oak staves are immediately apparent on the nose.  Oak is displayed prominently, compared to Maker’s Mark.  The vanilla note is also stronger, and comes across as creamy French vanilla ice cream.  The slightest tinge of ground cinnamon and nutmeg round out the sweet, rich nose.  The palate is equally rich.  Vanilla extract, whipped cream, sweet cinnamon bread (without the spiciness) and oak tannins almost make this whisky taste like a decadent dessert.  The medium-length finish introduces a small citrus note alongside slightly drying sweet oak.  My only complaint is that, even though it is 94 proof, Maker’s 46 seems to be a bit thin in the mouthfeel.  That might be addressed in the cask strength version.

This is a great expression!  A slightly spicier and richer version of Maker’s Mark is what the distillers were going for, and they succeeded.  Retail here is $34.99, about $10 more than the standard Maker’s.  I think it’s definitely worth the slightly premium.  There’s just so much to like here.

8/10


Maker’s 46 Cask Strength

Makers 46 CSThe newest expression from Maker’s Mark, Maker’s 46 Cask Strength hit their distillery gift shop in 2015.  Though it’s only (currently) available in 375ml bottles, Maker’s 46 CS hit the hands of enthusiastic fans to mostly positive reviews.  The first batch released is 108.9 proof.  With higher alcohol content comes more concentrated aromas.  Where Maker’s 46 smelled like a rich dessert, Maker’s 46 CS comes across as a candied version of that same dessert.  There’s a big syrupy-ness about it.  Those vanilla, oak and baking spices are still present, but they are fighting through a wall of sweetness to be noticed.   On entry, the higher proof provides a slightly more viscous whisky and tingles the tongue.  Maple syrup and  creamy vanilla lead the palate, with a drying oak note popping up towards the end of the experience.  The finish here is long, with sweet vanilla, ground cinnamon and slightly drying oak.

Thankfully, the palate wasn’t as sweet as the nose.  As a barrel proof whisky, this takes the standard expression qualities and turns them up to 11.  Also of note, there was no big alcohol note sometimes associated with barrel strength whiskies.  Great job by the folks at Maker’s Mark.  Pick up a bottle next time you’re in Loretto, Kentucky.  Highly recommended.

8.5/10

(Thanks to Maker’s Mark of the samples of Maker’s 46 and Maker’s 46 Cask Strength.)

The Yamazaki Sherry Cask 2016 Announced

 

Photo courtesy of Beam-Suntory.

Photo courtesy of Beam-Suntory.

Jim Murray’s 2014 World Whisky of the Year was The Yamazaki Sherry Cask 2013.  Sadly, that expression was not released in the United States, and lots of Yamazaki fans were left empty handed.   Chin up, folks.  The 2016 edition of the Yamazaki Sherry Cask comes to the U.S. market, among others.  Only about 5,000 bottles are being released worldwide.  I’m not being told how many of those bottles are making it here, but I can bet it won’t be a lot.  Read on for the full press release.

Deerfield, IL (January 12, 2016) – It may have come as a surprise that Suntory Whisky Yamazaki® Sherry Cask 2013 was named “World Whisky of the Year” in Jim Murray’s 2015 Whisky Bible. However, sherry cask whisky has been a constant staple of the Suntory Whisky portfolio since 1924, a year after the distillery began construction. Shinjiro Torii, the founding father of Japanese whisky first started making his whiskies by leveraging sherry casks imported from the wine of southern Spain needed to blend his famous Akadama Sweet Wine. Hence the sherry cask was the first cask used by Suntory Whisky and plays an important role in the origin of Japanese whisky.

The House of Suntory Whisky is proud to introduce Yamazaki® Sherry Cask 2016 (48% ABV), available as of February 1, 2016. 

The Sherry Cask – A Meticulous Selection

Over its 92-year history, Suntory Whisky has managed numerous sherry casks and sherry malts. Suntory’s Chief Blender Shinji Fukuyo makes a point of visiting the Northern region of Spain himself. He does this to ensure that his selection of Spanish oak be sent to the “bodegas” (sherry wineries) to be made into the sherry casks used to store their Oloroso Sherry. Fukuyo carefully oversees this entire process, from the selection of the casks, to the charring and the aging of the sherry. After three years of aging, the sherry casks are sent back to Suntory’s Yamazaki distillery, ready to receive what becomes the distinguished Yamazaki Sherry Cask Whisky.

The Sherry Cask – The Challenge

Sherry casks are both revered and feared for their strong character, as they can easily overpower a whisky’s flavor. The Yamazaki malts can also be affected by this sherry/Spanish oak cask flavor. However, in the case of the Yamazaki Sherry Cask, Suntory’s Chief Blender Shinji Fukuyo selects only those casks in which the delicate balance of chemistry between the Yamazaki malt and sherry cask can be achieved, thereby enhancing Yamazaki’s characteristically rich and multifaceted flavor. The meticulous selection process of the Spanish oak, the management of the sherry casks, and the overall aging process ensure the final award winning quality of this liquid.

The Yamazaki Sherry Cask 2016:

A Fine Blend of Maturity and Delicateness

Chief Blender Shinji Fukuyo is often compared to an artist. His blends are deliberate designs meticulously chosen from more than 100 malt whiskies. Each taste is a color and aroma, specifically curated for the occasion. Fukuyo is clear that he did not blend the Yamazaki Sherry Cask 2016 for the novice. The Yamazaki Sherry Cask 2016 is created for the “Suntory Whisky Lover”—a lover of complex, refined and subtle tastes. Like the rest of the Yamazaki Cask Collection (Mizunara, Bourbon Barrel, and Puncheon), the sherry cask is a critical component that differentiates and characterizes the award winning Yamazaki Single Malt Whisky.

The Yamazaki Sherry Cask 2016 – The Journey

Fukuyo has designed a journey in this whisky. The Yamazaki Sherry Cask 2016 is undeniably where Spain meets Japan in the form of a whisky. To fully enjoy this journey, Fukuyo recommends the whisky first be served neat to showcase its nose. On its own, there is a clear and fresh top note. A raisin-like, deep sweetness that is both elegant and rich. You immediately taste the complexity of this liquid and the fine balance of maturity and delicateness. Served on the rocks, the flavor opens as you begin to taste the Delaware grape-like sweetness and its slightly bitter acidity. When cut with water, there is a soft sweetness that blossoms like the first apples of the harvest.

Tasting Notes

The Yamazaki Sherry Cask 2016 leverages the same lot of whiskies as was used for the Yamazaki Sherry cask 2013 for its base. These whiskies have matured for two more years. To this blend, Fukuoy adds various rare sherry cask single malt whiskies, some of which are more than 25 years old, creating a whisky that has a deep richness, mellowness and complexity of flavors.

Color:   Dark brown, a rich and decadent natural “Sherry” color

Nose:    Raisin, sun-dried tomato, clove, cocoa

Taste:    Deep, rich, sweet and sour, chocolate with hazelnuts

Finish:  Long, bittersweet, sour

 Yamazaki Sherry Cask 2016, a single malt whisky, is presented at 48% alcohol by volume (96 proof) and will be available in market as of February 1, 2016. The suggested retail price is $300.00. Five thousand bottles of Yamazaki Sherry Cask 2016 have been produced globally.